JUNE 2023 16 with Stefano Fabbri, owner of Pomo Pizzeria T he passion for Italian cuisine is evident in Stefano Fabbri’s love for his restaurants and commitment to its culture. Born and raised in a small village in Italy, Stefano grew up in his father’s and grandfather’s restaurants before bringing the skills he learned to America. Where are you originally from? I am from Rimini, a small town near the Adriatic Coast in Emilia-Romagna, Italy. It’s a region most famous for its food: bologna, prosciutto di parma, mortadella, parmigiana reggiano, tagliatelle, homemade pasta and egg pasta. Tell us about your childhood. I was lucky to grow up where I did, especially in a little village. You don’t understand how free you are. My 13 and 15-year-old daughters are going there this month, and they are so excited – there were no babysitters, we did whatever we wanted. You are completely free. In a little village, everyone knows everyone. It’s safe. I moved to America in 2008 – first to Seattle, then Arizona, mostly for the weather. Did you grow up in the restaurant industry? In 1949, my grandpa opened a bakery called Forno Fabbri. My father and uncle helped run and operate the family bakery. After 20 years of working in the family bakery, my father and mother decided to move on and they opened their own business, a pizzeria and gelateria named Luna. They named the business after the English word moon, because they opened in July 1969 when we landed on the moon. After 74 years in business, my family still owns and operates Forno Fabbri. When I was 14 years old, I went to my father’s restaurant, and he told me to dust the shelves. I didn’t see dust – I told him, ‘If you see dust, you can clean it,’ and I quit [ laughs ]. I told my mother I quit, and that I didn’t want to clean the dust! The day after, I went and got my job back. Did you always know you wanted to open a restaurant? When I was in Italy, no, but when I moved to America – well, it came all on its own. I didn’t see any opportunity like the one I was doing in Europe, so I was looking for something different, and the passion for Neapolitan pizza came naturally. I didn’t see many pizzas where the flavor brings you straight to Italy. So I said, ‘Let’s find a great location and make great pizza.’ Did you learn any cooking skills from family? I went to school to learn how to make gelato, but I didn’t go to school to be a chef – that’s not my title. I learned as I went. I wanted to study supplies and products – flour, cheese, Italian foods – and focus on updating them. What is the inspiration behind the vibe at Pomo? To have a place where the people can enjoy authentic Italian food in a way like we do in Italy. In the beginning, it was difficult because guests would complain that the pizza was soggy or wet. But that’s how Neapolitan pizza is cooked – in 60 to 90 seconds – so it’s going to be a little soft. That’s how they cook it in Naples. It was tough in the beginning, but I’m thankful for my team and that my customers keep coming back. Did you have to get special certification to be considered a Neapolitan eatery? Absolutely. We had to get a special certificate stating that we practice the same pizza methods that they do in Napoli. It is VPN, “Vera Pizza Napoletana;” vera means true. The VPN Association assures we are using specific standards when making our pizza, i.e. DOP brand tomatoes, “00” Caputo whole wheat organic flour, etc. Our oven is very specific to this, as well, and we have to use a special hook for the dough mixer to assure the exact consistency. In order to complete the certificate, we had to make a video of our pizza making process from beginning to end. The dough recipe, rising process, sauce made from tomato DOP, volcanic ash oven from Napoli, the wood we burn and the fast cooking time. The certificate is 100 percent worth pursuing, as it stands out from other pizzerias in the Valley and in the country. Our guests appreciate the attention to detail and the truest flavors of Napoletana pizza that we give them. Are all of Pomo’s ingredients imported from Italy? As much as we can, yes. It doesn’t need to be Italian if it models the Italian flavor. Every year, I go back to Italy and spend “a couple of weeks” [ laughs ] – I spend three months researching foods and new flavors. If you go to Italy and taste something, you can find something in America with a similar flavor. How does Italian culture tie in? It’s important to have a good work culture. People stay and work with us. Our regulars are here all the time and love to be part of our family. We have an amazing team working in all of our locations. The customers come back because they see the same people every time. They love 2502 E. Camelback Road • pomopizzeria.com In the Kitchen The Italian Vespa that Pomo uses for special events is outfitted with a portable wood-fired oven.

17 JUNE 2023 to be treated like family, and that’s part of Italian culture. You have to have that family feeling between your employees and guests. We don’t only sell food. We sell an experience. There are three Pomo locations? Yes – we opened the Scottsdale location in 2010, then we moved that from the Borgata to the shops at Gainey Village on Doubletree; that one opened in 2013. That was a great step for us because, with the new location, the lunch hours have really picked up. At the Biltmore location, we just installed a Neapolitan wood-fired oven to make the pizzas. There’s another location in downtown Phoenix on First Street. Speaking of ovens, Pomo has a portable one for events? Oh, yes! For many years, my manager, Cricket, wanted to have a catering option. So we have a little Italian Vespa with a portable wood-fired oven connected to it, and we can bring it to any event – wedding, anniversary, birthday, shower, bath [ laughs ]. What’s the most challenging part of owning a business? The most difficult thing is to find employees. After the pandemic, it’s impossible. I don’t know where the people went. It’s not just a lack of finding people. It’s the lack of finding good people. Because now, they come to work and do whatever they want. If you fire them, they can find another job in three seconds. Thank God we have Cricket, and we’ve built a great culture. We have a good, respectful, clean environment. Respect is number one. What’s the best part? That I never work. What I mean is when you love the job you do, you’re never working. I love what I’m doing. I enjoy the energy. I love spending time with people, with my team. This is my passion. If you don’t love what you’re doing, you shouldn’t be doing it. We posted a video on Instagram recently and got 10,000 likes, and it’s like the kids today – I saw that and AHHH! Sometimes it’s difficult, but most of it is fun. The team makes everything better. The first step is just to start. And now, I can’t stop [ laughs ]. Tell us about Rosso Italian. We just opened Rosso Italian in downtown Phoenix [at 2 E. Jefferson Street]. Rosso means red in Italian. Why red? Because red is a great color, especially for Italian food. Red is a Ferrari. It’s an Italian flag. It’s a tomato – it’s power. It’s everything. I’m really happy with everything there so far. What does Pomo mean? Well, I like short names. Pomo is short for Pomodoro, which means tomato. It’s easy to remember and difficult to misspell. What are your responsibilities within the restaurant? My job is mostly making sure of the quality of the food, updating the menu, changing recipes, bringing new items and products and looking to improve on all aspects; consistency is one of the most important things in a restaurant. You can’t change the menu day after day, you know? Training your employees is also important. What’s the most popular item on the menu? Well, we have two popular items – pasta and pizza. For pasta, it’s the Strozzapreti Salsiccia [tomato cream sauce, sausage, Parmigiano and rosemary]. Lately, the Burratella [burrata cheese, hot soppressata, organic honey, mozzarella, chili thread, basil] pizza has been really popular, but people also love the Margherita. What do you eat when you cook at home? I eat at Pomo [ laughs ]. No, I’m joking. If I had to choose one, it’s Paccheri with lobster. Paccheri is a big, huge macaroni noodle – lobster sauce, tomato, lobster. I like to cook that when I’m home. Who is your biggest inspiration? I don’t think I have a person. My passion is to make a business to be happy and proud of – my inspiration is to make sure the guests are happy and enjoy themselves. I want the guests to have an authentic experience. Is there anything you miss about Italy? I would say the food, but I’m around it every day, so I don’t miss that. I don’t miss it very much, except for the quality of life. Here, we live to work. In Italy, they live to live. It’s a different style of life there. But I would only go back there for vacation. I love Arizona. What’s next for Stefano Fabbri? What’s next? I need to get to the Scottsdale location [ laughs ]. We’ll see – I have a dream project, but it’s still in the planning stages. The Burratella. Discover sophistication, urban living, and reprieve in the heart of the desert at Clarendale Arcadia – the oasis you’ve been searching for. 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