16 SEPTEMBER 2021 you don’t want something light during the winter – you want something heavy or hearty, you know? I mean, now you can get anything you want from anywhere in the world, but I like to follow the seasons – I think that’s important. At J&G, it’s a little different because the root of the menu is the steak – meat is meat, but I can play around with the appetizers, the sides and the fish. Do you have a favorite dish you like to cook? Yes, a few things! I love to cook fish; I’m very good at that. I’ve won many contests cooking fish. One was the Heineken challenge back east. I had to develop a recipe with a Heineken beer as the base and a fish. So I made a skin-seared salmon with stuffed cabbage and a beer glaze, and I won. So that was good. I like making pastries as well. I make my own pastry at J&G. Oh, and pasta, I love to cook pasta. What about the most challenging dish you’ve had to cook? In France, when you’re doing the apprenticeship and have to take exams, there are 120 recipes that you have to know by heart. It’s tough to replicate the recipe the way they want it, you know? Classic dishes can be hard, with technique and timing. I think part of the issue with some of the new generation is that they don’t know the base – not that they don’t want to learn recipes, but there are fewer schools, too. If the teacher isn’t knowledgeable about the recipe, it’s tough for the new generation to learn. Do you have a signature dish? Back east, I did a turbot [a firm flatfish from France] with a comté cheese crust. I made the crust with butter, bread crumbs and cheese and served it with spinach and a creamy white wine sauce. I had some really good reviews on that one. At J&G, we’re doing roasted peaches with a basil pesto emulsion and homemade wagyu meatballs with tomato marmalade and asiago/parmesan cheese. It’s good! By Mallory Gleich W ith plenty of practice, knowledge garnered by working with world- renowned chefs and an evident passion for cooking, Chef Jacques Qualin is a force in the culinary world. Born and raised in France, Qualin moved across the pond in the early 90s and started his career in the U.S., working at various eateries in New York. He left the snow for the sun and has been executive chef at J&G Steakhouse for more than ten years. Where did you grow up? I’m originally from France. I grew up on the east side in a region called Franche-Comté, right above the Alps and right on the border of Switzerland. It’s very green, lots of mountains and agriculture and foraging – and lots of meat and cheese! When did you move to America? In 1995. I was here once before in 1991 and worked for Chef Daniel Boulud at Le Cirque [in New York] for a year and a half and then came back a few years later. I worked for a long time on the east coast; I owned my own place upstate – and moved here to Phoenix in 2009 to open J&G Steakhouse. Your career started with culinary school? Yes – I went through the apprentice program in France at age 16. The program is two years long, and you have to work while also going to school. At school, you learn about the business and the health department. I feel like the program in France goes a little deeper than in America. It’s a lot of practice. I finished first in my class and immediately started working in a restaurant – I worked my way up through each position. What’s a favorite childhood meal you remember? There are many of them! Mom was a classic cook. There was a lot of smoked meat, cheeses – or a roasted chicken with all of the sides for Sunday dinner. In France, we paid a lot of attention to detail on the food, depending on what we made. There were one or two appetizers, a salad, a main course – and cheese – and dessert! What is your favorite part of being a chef? My favorite part is teaching people. It’s important to pass on the knowledge and teach people something. I work 12 hours a day, and being a chef is all about managing, but once you learn that, it’s all about what you can pass on to another. What mantra do you use when it gets crazy in the kitchen? I would say stress is good as long as it doesn’t overwhelm you. Think clear and work fast – that’s my mantra. What hobbies do you have outside of the kitchen? I love the outdoors, so I love to go hiking, hunting, fishing. I’m a competitive shooter, so I shoot long range in various competitions. I like to travel – Colorado, Utah, New Mexico. I don’t make it back to France, though. One item you can’t live without in your kitchen? Cheese. My favorite is comté! And your favorite comfort food? Well, it’s a little obvious, but cheese for sure. I always go back to pasta, or a nice salad or vegetables. I try to avoid sugar, but I do love ice cream. How do you overcome challenges in the kitchen? You have to have goals. Without goals, there won’t be a challenge. The challenge comes when you figure out how you want to move forward in your life, so you find your goal and push as much as you can to get there. Stay flexible, work hard, work fast. At the end of the day, you have to do your best to make your guests happy. That’s what is important to me. What’s in store for the future of Chef Qualin? Retirement [ laughs ]. No, actually, I’m not sure. I’ve been at J&G for 13 years – but I’m always up to something! In the Kitchen with Executive Chef Jacques Qualin of J&G Steakhouse Did you always know you wanted to be a chef? Oh, always. Ever since I was young, I watched my mother cook at home, and she put out some very nice meals – she was a great cook. I learned many recipes, and I was very eager to read books on cooking and work on my recipes. Any anecdotes from your time in the kitchen? Back in 1991, I was working at Le Cirque in the kitchen, and one day, the chef asked me to help out in pastry because they were short-staffed and needed help. The pastry chef, Jacques Torres, handed me a menu with 15 desserts on it, and I asked if he would show me the dishes. Service started, and he disappeared. So I had to work in pastry all by myself – I had to learn quickly! Where else have you worked? I worked in Paris for a while. Then, mainly in New York City with Chef Boulud and also with Chef Jean-Georges [Vongerichten]. I worked with Jean- Georges for a long time. I worked at JoJo, the first restaurant he opened in New York City and after that, went to Trump Tower. I was an executive chef at a small French restaurant before opening my own in the Catskills. What advice would you give to someone who wants to open a restaurant? Don’t be defeated. There are a lot of hours to put in, and a lot of things will come at you – when you think you have enough, it’s not enough because there’s always something more that could happen. You have to be super motivated and in good health. To open a restaurant, you have to find the right location, concept, and people. Many people open places and realize they picked the wrong location or concept, and it becomes a challenge. What is the inspiration for the recipes at J&G? Mostly I try to work seasonally. We change the menu every season because ingredients change – so there are different things to work with in the summer that don’t work in the winter. In Arizona, the weather is always nice, but in other places, The Phoenician • 6000 E. Camelback Road • jgsteakhousescottsdale.com

17 SEPTEMBER 2021 By Joe Giumette It’s the birthplace of sliced bread, the nation’s top producer of corn and for a week in July, the state of Iowa is the home of the annual RAGBRAI event. Arcadia resident and avid bike-rider Philip Miller joined thousands of others for this year’s Register’s Annual Great Bicycle Race Across Iowa, or RAGBRAI. This is his second time participating in the race. [ see our November 2013 issue for Philip’s first excursion. ] Since 1973, biking aficionados have spent a week in Iowa every July, riding their bicycles from the state’s western border, along the Missouri River, to its eastern edge, along the Mississippi River. They follow a pre- determined route, which changes every year, usually 40 to 80 miles per day and have a lot of fun along the way. The event, which encompassed 454 miles this year, is sponsored by the Des Moines Register . It started as a challenge between two staff reporters and has grown to attract cycling enthusiasts worldwide. This year, more than 15,000 bikers participated. Iowa’s humidity and hot July temperatures made this year’s ride even more challenging. “I’m used to the heat,” Philip said, “But wow, that humidity!” A former Iowan, Philip has dried out in Arizona. Philip and his wife, Tessa, along with their rescue dog Sprinkles, have just completed this year’s RAGBRAI, with Philip riding his Trek bike while Tessa and Sprinkles drove ahead of the pack to find a suitable spot for Elsie, their 35- foot Class A motor home. They’ve traveled in Elsie since 2013, when they bought the rig over the internet. “Our four children have all grown and left the nest,” Tessa explained. That left them with fewer household chores and provided them with more free time. This year’s RAGBRAI event was one stop on their journey as they traveled throughout the country for 11 weeks. “We just think this is the perfect way to see the whole country up close,” Tessa said. The couple expects to return to Arcadia by September 10. “I’ve lost a couple of bikes to accidents while riding in Arcadia,” Philip said. One accident broke part of his hip; the other, he went through the windshield of a car. In both incidents, the bicycle was ruined. “The RAGBRAI eliminates apprehension most bikers experience when they venture out on public streets and highways,” Philip said. To keep the route free from motor vehicles, each week-long participant pays a fee, which helps with permits, signs, pylons and other elements to keep the event safe. Besides the exercise, the event, which Philip calls “a party on wheels,” also serves as a way to make new friends. “Each participant’s bike has a little tag hanging under its seat with vital information like names, addresses, occupations, and so on,” he said. “So, each biker can scan those tags, maybe find someone from their home state, and strike up a conversation. Many folks make lasting friendships that way.” Philip, who describes himself as “semi- retired,” conducts business from his computer and cell phone between each leg of the journey. He uses an exercise bike at his home to get in shape for his cycling adventures. The pair are quick to caution those who may be inspired to try the RAGBRAI challenge that an event of that complexity requires at least a year’s planning. “You have to make reservations at motels and campgrounds that much in advance,” Tessa said. That is due to the race’s popularity and also the increasing popularity of RV travel. Philip and Tessa may do another RAGBRAI event “in five years or so,” but they’ve already decided on a new adventure for 2022 – a hiking tour of Machu Picchu in Peru. charmingmillers.com ragbrai.com Arcadian heads Midwest for annual bike race Philip Miller PHOTO: S. AHRED/PIXABAY/TESSA MILLER Over 15,000 riders participated this year. Tessa in the Badlands of South Dakota. Sprinkles stops to smell the flowers. SMOOTH, SLEEK, FRIZZ-FREE BRAZILIAN Exs *Valid for first time clients. Price based on volume and length of hair. May not be combined with other offers. No cash value. Expires 10/31/21 Schede Today! Near AJ’s at 44th & Camelback (602) 812-4134 • azrootbar.com The game-changing treatment that makes hair smooth to the touch for an easy, beautiful blowout. Get 4 to 6 weeks of ease of styling and less damage to hair. Only $75 with this offer (Regular Price $125) $ 50 OFF * YOUR SAFETY IS OUR TOP PRIORITY. SAFETY + SANITATION PROTOCOLS IN FULL EFFECT.